Crochet Dinosaur Series - Tyler the Tyrannosaurus Rex

 Tyler the Tyrannosaurus Rex is the last of the land dinosaur to be released in the Crochet Dinosaur Series.

Tyler is the only land carnivore on the playmat, but don't worry he's perfectly friendly and everyone will see him coming with his lovely shade of yellow.

Tyler uses Romanian Point Lace Cord (which I introduced in my Jewellery blog post) for his front arms, and it works perfectly.   His back legs were a little more complicated and although they are joined as you crochet, they do actually require a little more sewing to secure them in to the place they are needed.

Tyler is created in one go, except for his tail, a hole is left, through which you can stuff him, then the tail is created at the end.   However, this doesn't really create much more sewing work.   It's Tyler's toothy mouth which I think really gives him his personality and was also the only part that got me really frustrated.   It took me ages to get it just perfect.

Tyler the Tyrannosaurus Rex is the same to make big or small and you can find the instructions for him below.

I hope you enjoy adding Tyler the T-Rex to your collection.  Join me next week for the first of the water dinosaurs.

Vicky x

Tyler Tyrannosaurus Rex

Tyler is  6” Tall (when standing) and 8” long when made for the playmat in DK yarn.

If you make Tyler in Aran/worsted weight yarn he will be 8” tall (standing) and 12” long.

1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make Tyler.

• Double Knit Yarn – 100g balls in the following colours
  • Yellow
• small bits of black double knit yarn (for mouths)
• 2 x 10mm safety eyes (or you can sew them on in black)
• Stuffing
• 4 mm hook
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• scissors

All dinosaurs can be made bigger by using Aran/worsted weight yarn and a 3mm hook.

1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this series of patterns.  All terms used are American.

• Sl st – slip stitch
• Sc – single crochet
• Sc inc – single crochet increase
• Sc dec – single crochet decrease
• Ch – chain

2. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

Gauge

The dinosaurs have no specific gauge, however they need to be as tight as possible to prevent the stuffing from coming out.

• All these patterns are worked in continuous rounds, do not sl st at the end of each round. A stitch marker is essential for keeping track of the start of your rows.
• It is best to stuff as you go with these patterns. Most patterns indicate the best points to stuff, but incase you miss them, it is always best to stuff if you hit a row that gets to 12 stitches.  Any less makes it much harder to stuff large areas.

 Back legs – make 2 in yellow

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	Ch 12, sl st to form a ring	12
2-4	Sc around	12
5	(Sc, sc dec) x 4	8
6-8	Sc around	8
9	(sc inc) x 4, 4 sc	12
10	7 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn
	6 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn
	6 sc, sc in base of sl st, 5 sc
11	(sc, sc dec) x 4	8
12-13	Sc around	8
14	(sc inc) x 2, 5 sc, sc inc	11
15	Sc around	11
16	Fold in half a close with 4 sc (make sc through both layers), sl st, ch 1, turn	4
17	4 sc, ch 1, turn	4
18	(Ch 3, sl st) x 3 to make 3 toes	3 ch 3 loops
	Cast off, sew in ends and stuff legs

Front legs – make 2 in yellow

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	Make Romanian point lace cord 1” long (2” if making in aran/worsted weight wool)	–
2	(sl st, ch 2) x 3, sl st in original sl st (makes 3 claws)	–
	Cast of a sew claw end through to starting end then tie both ends in a knot.   The ends will be hidden in the dinosaurs body later

Head – In yellow

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	8 sc in magic circle	8
2	(sc inc) x 8	16
3	(sc inc) x 4, 4 sc, (sc inc) x 4, 4sc	24
4-11	Sc around	24
12	(sc inc) x 8, 16 sc	32
13	Sc around	32
14	16 sc, sl st, ch 1 turn
	15 sc, sl st, ch 1 turn
	15 sc, sl st in 1st sl st, ch 1 turn
	15 sc, sl st in 1st sl st, ch 1 turn
15	Sc around (don’t forget sl st base)	32
16	5 sc, (sc dec) x 4, 5 sc, (sc dec) x 2. 5 sc, (sc dec) x 2	24
17	Sc around	24
	Add eyes between rows 12 and 13 either side of the short row ridge
18	(2 sc, sc dec) x 6	18
19	11 sc, sl st, ch 1 turn
	10 sc, sl st, ch 1 turn
	10 sc, sc in sl st, 6 sc	17
20	Sc around	18
21	(8 sc, sc inc) x 2	20
22	Sc around	20
23	sc, attach front leg with 2sc, 6sc, sc inc, 6sc, attach front leg with 2sc, sc, sc inc	22
24	Sc around	22
25	(10 sc, sc inc) x 2	24
26-28	Sc around	24
29	2 sc, (sc inc) x 3, 13sc, (sc inc) x 3, 4 sc	30
30	2 sc, (sc inc) x 6, 13 sc, (sc inc) x 6, 4 sc	42
31-32	Sc around	42
33	2 sc, (sc dec) x 6, 13 sc, (sc dec) x 6, 4  sc	30
34	2 sc, attach leg with 6 sc, 13 sc, attach leg with 6sc, 4 sc	30
35	2 sc, (sc dec) x 3, 13 sc, (sc dec) x 3, 4 sc	24
26	8 sc, ch 8, skip 6, 10 sc	18 + ch 6
27	2 sc, sc dec, 2 sc, sc dec, 6 sc in ch 6 gap, 2 sc, sc dec, sc, (sc dec) x 2	18
28	( sc, sc dec) x 6	12
29	(sc dec) x 6	6
30	(sc dec ) x 3	3
	Sl st cast off and sew in ends
	Stuff head and body through tail hole

Use a few stitches to sew legs closer into the body 

Tail – in yellow

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	18 sc around the opening	18
2-5	Sc around	18
6	(7sc, sc dec) x 2	16
7-10	Sc around	16
11	(6 sc, sc dec) x 2	14
12-14	Sc around	14
15	(5sc, sc dec) x 2	12
16-18	Sc around	12
19	(4 sc, sc dec) x 2	10
20-21	Sc around	10
	Stuff tail and continue to stuff as you go
22	(3 sc, sc dec) x 2	8
23-23	Sc around	8
24	(2 sc, sc dec) x 2	6
25	(sc, sc dec) x 2	4
	Sl st, cast off and sew shut

Sew on mouth and nostrils

 

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