Crochet Dinosaur Baby Gifts

 A while a go I found out one of my good friends is expecting her third boy and knowing she doesn't need anything (she has it all from her previous two) I decided I wanted to make something unique that she wouldn't already have.   I started thinking about the things that my children used the most and blankets, comforters and rattles were among my top ideas.  I also have children that are mad on dinosaurs and I decided it was a good starting point.   I found myself in hobbycraft (as I often do) in the wool section and fell in love with the bright blue and green from the new Caron Simply Soft range.  They were on 3 for 2 at the time and so I also got one in white.  It was at this point I realised the comforter was what I was going to make.

I sat down to create my dinosaur comforter and being a fan of no sewing all the parts are attached as you go and the whole comforter is created in one long pieces, so only ends need weaving in.   He was surprisingly quick to create, completing him in a day I also had a go at using short row shaping for the first time without following a pattern.  I was really pleased with my dinosaur comforter, he has bright colours and is really soft and I am hoping is something that the new baby will enjoy playing with.  He didn't really use much of the wool I had bought though and so I decided to try and have a go at a c2c (corner to corner) graph blanket using the same colours (so they match) again with a dinosaur theme.

So I got the graph paper out and sat and drew an outline of a dinosaur and egg on the paper as a guide to follow.  After a few attempts I found a design I was happy with and started to create my blanket.  It is not as hard to work a graph design in c2c as I was anticipating, however, I very quickly learnt the value of bobbins as constantly cutting the wool every colour change resulted in a lot of weaving in of ends, not something I enjoy at all!   About 1/3 of the way in, I started to separate the wool in to various smaller balls so I didn't have so much cutting and the result is definitely a lot better.  Not only are there many less ends to weave in, but I think the design looks better, and in the long run will also make it far less likely to fall apart.   Next time, I think I will mentally run through a design and figure out what I need and separate the wool before I even start!

I was very pleased with the finished blanket, although it will slightly annoy me that the picture is not completely centered.   I finished it off with a simple border consisting of a sc and ch2 in between every block, followed by 3sc across each ch2, then a row of dc, a row of sc and finally a crab stitch finish.  Using each of the colours in the blanket really finishes it off in a simple and easy way.   I have added the graph of the dinosaur blanket below incase you want to try and make it yourself, although the dinosaur is a little more centered in it than in my blanket.   The dinosaur comforter pattern can be found below.

I hope you have enjoyed my crochet dinosaur baby gifts as much as I enjoyed creating them, and my friend and her baby will enjoy using them.   See you all next week.

Vicky x

C2C Baby Dinosaur Blanket

Materials:

·        400g Double Knit weight yarn in Blue

·        200g double knit weight yarn in Green

·        100g double knit weight yarn in white

·        Odd bit of worsted yarn in black

·        4mm hook

·        Tapestry needle

You will not use all of this yarn (you can use the left overs for the matching comforter) but I found it helpful to have more so you have plenty to use for bobbins when you change colours.   This reduces the amount of ends you will need to sew in. 

This blanket it worked in corner to corner (c2c) stitch, in blue (B), Green (G) and white (W).  The table below indicates when you should increased and decrease, plus the number of blocks for each colour.  A graph is included at the end to help.

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	1B, inc	1
2	2B, inc	2
3	3B, inc	3
4	4B, inc	4
5	5B, inc	5
6	6B, inc	6
7	7B, inc	7
8	8B, inc	8
9	9B, inc	9
10	10B, inc	10
11	7B, 1W, 3B inc	11
12	3B, 2G, 7B, inc	12
13	8B, 1G, 1W, 3B, inc	13
14	3B, 3G, 8B, inc	14
15	9B, 2G, 1W, 3B, inc	15
16	3B, 4G, 9B, inc	16
17	9B, 4G, 4B, inc	17
18	5B, 4G, 9B, inc	18
19	9B, 4G, 6B, inc	19
20	4B, 1W, 2B, 4G, 9B, inc	20
21	9B, 4G, 2B, 2G, 4B, inc	21
22	4B, 1W, 2G, 2B, 4G, 9B, inc	22
23	7B, 6G, 2B, 3G, 5B, inc	23
24	6B, 3G, 2B, 6G, 7B, inc	24
25	7B, 6G, 2B, 3G, 7B, inc	25
26	8B, 3G, 1B, 7G, 7B, inc	26
27	7B, 11G, 9B, inc	27
28	10B, 11G, 7B, inc	28
29	7B, 12G, 10B, inc	29
30	10B, 13G, 7B, inc	30
31	7B, 4G, 1B, 9G, 5B, 1W, 4B, inc	31
32	4B, 2G, 4B, 9G, 2B, 4G, 7B, inc	32
33	3B, 3G, 1B, 4G, 2B, 10G, 3B, 2G, 2W, 3B, inc	33
34	3B, 5G, 2B, 10G, 3B, 7G, 4B, inc	34
35	5B, 6G, 4B, 10G, 1B, 3G, 1B, 1G, 1W, 3B, inc	35
36	3B, 3G, 1B, 13G, 5B, 6G, 5B, dec	36
37	4B, 1G, 1 Black, 4G, 5B, 13G, 2B, 2G, 1W, 3B, inc	36
38	3B, 4G, 2B, 12G, 6B, 5G, 4B,  dec	36
39	3B, 5G, 7B, 11G,  2B, 4G, 4B, inc	36
40	5B, 4G, 2B, 10G, 8B, 4G, 3B, dec	36
41	3B, 3G, 8B, 10G, 2B, 4G, 6B, inc	36
42	6B, 4G, 1B, 10G, 14B, dec	36
43	14B, 14G, 8B, inc	36
44	9B, 13G, 14B, dec	36
45	14B, 12G, 10B, inc	36
46	11B, 11G, 14B, dec	36
47	14B, 10G, 12B, inc	36
48	13B, 9G, 14B, dec	36
49	14B, 19G, 3B, inc	36
50	3B, 18G, 15B, dec	36
51	15B, 18G, 3B, inc	36
52	3B, 18G, 15B, dec	36
53	17B, 16G, 3B, inc	36
54	3B, 2G, 31B, dec	36
55	32B, 1G, 3B dec	36
56	36B dec	36
57	35B dec	35
58	34B dec	34
59	33B dec	33
60	32B dec	32
61	31B dec	31
62	16B, 5W, 9B, dec	30
63	8B, 6W, 15B, dec	29
64	14B, 6W, 8B, dec	28
65	7B, 6W, 14B, dec	27
66	14B, 5W, 7B, dec	26
67	6B, 5W, 14B, dec	25
68	14B, 4W, 6B, dec	24
69	5B, 4W, 1G, 13B, dec	23
70	9B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 3W, 5B, dec	22
71	4B, 3W, 5G, 9B, dec	21
72	8B, 5G, 1B, 2W, 4B, dec	20
73	4B, 1W, 2B, 4G, 1W, 7B, dec	19
72	5B, 1W, 1G, 1 Black, 2G,  1W, 7B, dec	18
73	7B, 1W, 3G, 1W, 5B, dec	17
74	4B, 2W, 2G, 2W,  6B, dec	16
75	4B, 5W, 6B, dec	15
76	4B, 6W, 4B, dec	14
77	4B, 5W, 4B, dec	13
78	3B, 6W, 3B, dec	12
79	3B, 5W, 3B, dec	11
80	3B, 4W, 3B, dec	10
81	4B, 2W, 3B, dec	9
82	8B, dec	8
83	7B, dec	7
84	6B, dec	6
85	5B, dec	5
86	4B, dec	4
87	3B, dec	3
88	2B, dec	2
89	1B dec	1
	Sl st and cast off

Border – in blue

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	Starting in any corner, sc, ch2 sc, to form corner, then sc between 2 blocks and ch 2, repeat around and add corner in each corner, sl st and ch 1
2	Sc ch 2 in each corner, and 3 sc in each ch 2 space, sl st to start of row and cast off
3	In white – dc in each sc and dc ch 2 dc in each corner, sl st to start or row and cast off
4	In green, sc in each dc and sc ch 2 in each sc, sl st and ch 1
5	In Green, crab stitch in each sc and 3 crab stitch in each corner, sl st to starting st and cast off
	Sew in all ends

Baby Dinosaur Triceratops Comforter

1.  Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this comforter.

·        Double Knit Yarn – 100g balls in the following colours

o   Blue

o   Dark Green

o   White

·        2 x 10mm safety eyes (or you can sew them on in black)

·        Stuffing (I used about half a 250g bag of stuffing)

·        4mm hook

·        Tapestry needle

·        Stitch marker

·        scissors

 

This comforter can be made bigger by using Aran/worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook.

 

2.   Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this series of patterns.  All terms used are American.

·        Sl st – slip stitch

·        Sc – single crochet

·        Dc – double crochet

·        Sc inc – single crochet increase

·        Sc dec – single crochet decrease

·        Ch – chain

·        b/l – back loops

·        f/l – front loops

 

3.  Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

Gauge

The dinosaur has no specific gauge, however they need to be as tight as possible to prevent the stuffing from coming out. 

Short Row Shaping

1.     It is very helpful to have a stitch marker when doing short row shaping – so you always know where the start of the original row begins.   Short rows do not go right around the whole row, this gives the ability for shaping – i.e a dinosaurs head ridge for the eyes.

2.     In addition, when you start the first row after short row shaping, don’t forget the stitch at the base of the sl st show in the picture below.

 3.     Do not make a single crochet in the sl st, ignore these to create the short row shapes.

 Attaching Limbs as you go

Below is a guide to demonstrate how to attach limbs as you go.  Some of the dinosaur patterns use this method, other’s require normal sewing.

1.     To attach a limb you will need to hold your limb next to the dinosaur with the opening at the top with the toes pointing inwards at the bottom.  The photo to the left shows what you will see when placed correctly.

2.     You will then insert your hook through 2 layers of leg and through the dinosaur body and pull up a loop through all 3 layers.   Then complete the single crochet. 

All limbs will be attached this way unless otherwise stated.   Each pattern will indicate the number of single crochet stitches required to attach it.

3.     Feet are attached to the legs in a similar manner.   Your hook will be inserted through the stitch on both the foot and the leg and a loop pulled through and single crochet completed.   The difference with the feet is that 2 single crochets will go through each foot loop but only one will go through each foot.

 

Other Notes

·        This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not sl st at the end of each round.   A stitch marker is essential for keeping track of the start of your rows.

·        It is best to stuff as you go with these patterns.  Most patterns indicate the best points to stuff, but incase you miss them, it is always best to stuff if you hit a row that gets to 12 stitches.  Any less makes it much harder to stuff large areas.

 Horns – make 3 in white

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	4 sc in magic circle	4
2-4	Sc around	4
	Sl st and cast off

 Legs – make 2 in green

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	ch 8 and join with sl st to make a round	8
2-4	Sc around	8
5	(2 sc, sc inc) x2, 2 sc	10
6	Sc around	10
7	(Sc 4, sc inc) x2, sl st and cast off	12
	Sl st and cast off

 Foot – make 2 in white

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	6 sc in magic circle	6
2	Attach to leg using (sc inc) x 6	12
	Sl st and cast off

 Head – starting at the nose in green

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	6 sc in magic circle	6
2	Sc in b/l around	6
3	2 sc, attach horn with 2 sc, 2 sc	6
4	2 sc, (sc inc) x2, 2 sc	8
5	Sc around	8
6	3 sc, (sc inc) x3, 2 sc	11
7	4 sc, (sc inc) x5, 2 sc	16
8	Sc around	16
9	4 sc, (sc inc, sc) x4, sc inc, 3 sc	21
10	Sc around	21
11	9 sc, (sc inc) x3, sc 9	24
12	9 sc, attach horn using 2 sc, 3 sc, attach horn using 2 sc, 8 sc	24
13	23 sc, sl in last st, ch 1, turn
	sc in next st (st after sl st), 16 sc, sl st in next st, ch 1, turn
	Working in b/l 6 sc, (sc dec) x 2, 6 sc, sc in sl st base, sc	22
	Add the eyes between row 10 and 11, on the outside of the horns
14	Sc around	22
15	Sc, ch 6, sk 4, 18 sc	18 & ch 6
16	Sc, 6 sc in ch 6 gap, (sc dec) x 5, 5 sc, leave last stitch unworked	17
17	Attach legs with 3 sc ( 1 from previous round), sc, sc dec, attach leg with 3 sc, (sc dec) x 4, 2 Sc	14
18	(sc dec) x 7	7
	Sl st cast off and sew hole shut
	Stuff head

 Crest - Using 2 strands of blue

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	attach wool in 1st of the b/l created in row 15 and 16 sc across all loops you	16
2-3	Hdc across, ch3 and turn	16
4	DC in same st as ch 3, HDC and SC in next st, SC and HDC In next st, 2 DC in next st.  (2 DC, HDC SC, SC HDC, 2DC) X 5
	Cast off and sew in ends

 

Blanket - Stating with green

Row	Instruction	Stitches
1	12 sc around  neck opening	12
2	Sl into the b/l of row 1 starting st to beginning closing hole.   Using sl st insert hook into b/l of opposite st and go across opening,  you should have 6sl st in total to close hole	6
3	Sl into the f/l of round 1 and sc in each f/l joining with a sl to complete round	12
4	·         Ch3 2DC ch2 3DC in same st to make corner, ch1, sk next st, 3DC in same st, ch1, sk next st, 3DC ch 2 3DC in same st to make next corner, ch1 sk 1 st, 3DC ch2 3DC to make 3rd corner, ch 1, sk next st, 3DC in same st, ch 1, sk next st, 3DC ch 2 3DC to make last corner, ch1, sk final st and sl st into top of ch 3 (you now have 4 corner st and 2 single st)	9 single clusters and 4 corners
5	·         Ch4 and then in the first corner ch2 make another corner (3 DC ch2 3DC) then ch 1 and 3 DC in the ch1 so of previous round.  Ch 1 and 3 more DC in the next ch1 so.   Ch1 and you should be back at the second corner.   Make a corner in the ch 2 so (3DC ch 2 3DC). Repeat this pattern around until you get to the final sp before you ch4 put 2 DC in the so and sl st into the 3rd ch you stated with. (4 corners and 6 3DC set	12 clusters and 4 corners
6	·         switch to white and work 2 rows as above increasing by 1 cluster each time	16/ 20 clusters and 4 corners
7	·         switch to blue work 2 rows as above increasing by 1 cluster each time	24/ 28 clusters and 4 corners
8	·         switch to white work 1 rows as above increasing by 1 cluster each time	32  clusters and 4 corners
9	·         switch to green work 1 rows as above increasing by 1 cluster each time	36 clusters and 4 corners
10	·         continue in the green and use crab st- working 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in each ch1 sp and 2sc in each ch 2 sp and sl st into first st cast off and sew in ends.

 To finish using black wool sew a mouth at the base of the nose.   Sew tightly to bring the nose into more of a point.

  © All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.