A while a go I found out one of my good friends is expecting her third boy and knowing she doesn't need anything (she has it all from her previous two) I decided I wanted to make something unique that she wouldn't already have. I started thinking about the things that my children used the most and blankets, comforters and rattles were among my top ideas. I also have children that are mad on dinosaurs and I decided it was a good starting point. I found myself in hobbycraft (as I often do) in the wool section and fell in love with the bright blue and green from the new Caron Simply Soft range. They were on 3 for 2 at the time and so I also got one in white. It was at this point I realised the comforter was what I was going to make.
I sat down to create my dinosaur comforter and being a fan of no sewing all the parts are attached as you go and the whole comforter is created in one long pieces, so only ends need weaving in. He was surprisingly quick to create, completing him in a day I also had a go at using short row shaping for the first time without following a pattern. I was really pleased with my dinosaur comforter, he has bright colours and is really soft and I am hoping is something that the new baby will enjoy playing with. He didn't really use much of the wool I had bought though and so I decided to try and have a go at a c2c (corner to corner) graph blanket using the same colours (so they match) again with a dinosaur theme.
So I got the graph paper out and sat and drew an outline of a dinosaur and egg on the paper as a guide to follow. After a few attempts I found a design I was happy with and started to create my blanket. It is not as hard to work a graph design in c2c as I was anticipating, however, I very quickly learnt the value of bobbins as constantly cutting the wool every colour change resulted in a lot of weaving in of ends, not something I enjoy at all! About 1/3 of the way in, I started to separate the wool in to various smaller balls so I didn't have so much cutting and the result is definitely a lot better. Not only are there many less ends to weave in, but I think the design looks better, and in the long run will also make it far less likely to fall apart. Next time, I think I will mentally run through a design and figure out what I need and separate the wool before I even start!
I was very pleased with the finished blanket, although it will slightly annoy me that the picture is not completely centered. I finished it off with a simple border consisting of a sc and ch2 in between every block, followed by 3sc across each ch2, then a row of dc, a row of sc and finally a crab stitch finish. Using each of the colours in the blanket really finishes it off in a simple and easy way. I have added the graph of the dinosaur blanket below incase you want to try and make it yourself, although the dinosaur is a little more centered in it than in my blanket. The dinosaur comforter pattern can be found below.
I hope you have enjoyed my crochet dinosaur baby gifts as much as I enjoyed creating them, and my friend and her baby will enjoy using them. See you all next week.
Vicky x
C2C Baby Dinosaur
Blanket
Materials:
·
400g Double Knit weight yarn in Blue
·
200g double knit weight yarn in Green
·
100g double knit weight yarn in white
·
Odd bit of worsted yarn in black
·
4mm hook
·
Tapestry needle
You will not use all of this yarn (you can use the left overs for the
matching comforter) but I found it helpful to have more so you have plenty to
use for bobbins when you change colours.
This reduces the amount of ends you will need to sew in.
This blanket it worked in corner to corner
(c2c) stitch, in blue (B), Green (G) and white (W). The table below indicates when you should
increased and decrease, plus the number of blocks for each colour. A graph is included at the end to help.
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
1B, inc |
1 |
2 |
2B, inc |
2 |
3 |
3B, inc |
3 |
4 |
4B, inc |
4 |
5 |
5B, inc |
5 |
6 |
6B, inc |
6 |
7 |
7B, inc |
7 |
8 |
8B, inc |
8 |
9 |
9B, inc |
9 |
10 |
10B, inc |
10 |
11 |
7B, 1W, 3B inc |
11 |
12 |
3B, 2G, 7B, inc |
12 |
13 |
8B, 1G, 1W, 3B, inc |
13 |
14 |
3B, 3G, 8B, inc |
14 |
15 |
9B, 2G, 1W, 3B, inc |
15 |
16 |
3B, 4G, 9B, inc |
16 |
17 |
9B, 4G, 4B, inc |
17 |
18 |
5B, 4G, 9B, inc |
18 |
19 |
9B, 4G, 6B, inc |
19 |
20 |
4B, 1W, 2B, 4G, 9B,
inc |
20 |
21 |
9B, 4G, 2B, 2G, 4B,
inc |
21 |
22 |
4B, 1W, 2G, 2B, 4G,
9B, inc |
22 |
23 |
7B, 6G, 2B, 3G, 5B,
inc |
23 |
24 |
6B, 3G, 2B, 6G, 7B,
inc |
24 |
25 |
7B, 6G, 2B, 3G, 7B,
inc |
25 |
26 |
8B, 3G, 1B, 7G, 7B,
inc |
26 |
27 |
7B, 11G, 9B, inc |
27 |
28 |
10B, 11G, 7B, inc |
28 |
29 |
7B, 12G, 10B, inc |
29 |
30 |
10B, 13G, 7B, inc |
30 |
31 |
7B, 4G, 1B, 9G, 5B,
1W, 4B, inc |
31 |
32 |
4B, 2G, 4B, 9G, 2B,
4G, 7B, inc |
32 |
33 |
3B, 3G, 1B, 4G, 2B,
10G, 3B, 2G, 2W, 3B, inc |
33 |
34 |
3B, 5G, 2B, 10G,
3B, 7G, 4B, inc |
34 |
35 |
5B, 6G, 4B, 10G,
1B, 3G, 1B, 1G, 1W, 3B, inc |
35 |
36 |
3B, 3G, 1B, 13G,
5B, 6G, 5B, dec |
36 |
37 |
4B, 1G, 1 Black,
4G, 5B, 13G, 2B, 2G, 1W, 3B, inc |
36 |
38 |
3B, 4G, 2B, 12G,
6B, 5G, 4B, dec |
36 |
39 |
3B, 5G, 7B,
11G, 2B, 4G, 4B, inc |
36 |
40 |
5B, 4G, 2B, 10G,
8B, 4G, 3B, dec |
36 |
41 |
3B, 3G, 8B, 10G,
2B, 4G, 6B, inc |
36 |
42 |
6B, 4G, 1B, 10G,
14B, dec |
36 |
43 |
14B, 14G, 8B, inc |
36 |
44 |
9B, 13G, 14B, dec |
36 |
45 |
14B, 12G, 10B, inc |
36 |
46 |
11B, 11G, 14B, dec |
36 |
47 |
14B, 10G, 12B, inc |
36 |
48 |
13B, 9G, 14B, dec |
36 |
49 |
14B, 19G, 3B, inc |
36 |
50 |
3B, 18G, 15B, dec |
36 |
51 |
15B, 18G, 3B, inc |
36 |
52 |
3B, 18G, 15B, dec |
36 |
53 |
17B, 16G, 3B, inc |
36 |
54 |
3B, 2G, 31B, dec |
36 |
55 |
32B, 1G, 3B dec |
36 |
56 |
36B dec |
36 |
57 |
35B dec |
35 |
58 |
34B dec |
34 |
59 |
33B dec |
33 |
60 |
32B dec |
32 |
61 |
31B dec |
31 |
62 |
16B, 5W, 9B, dec |
30 |
63 |
8B, 6W, 15B, dec |
29 |
64 |
14B, 6W, 8B, dec |
28 |
65 |
7B, 6W, 14B, dec |
27 |
66 |
14B, 5W, 7B, dec |
26 |
67 |
6B, 5W, 14B, dec |
25 |
68 |
14B, 4W, 6B, dec |
24 |
69 |
5B, 4W, 1G, 13B,
dec |
23 |
70 |
9B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 3W,
5B, dec |
22 |
71 |
4B, 3W, 5G, 9B, dec |
21 |
72 |
8B, 5G, 1B, 2W, 4B,
dec |
20 |
73 |
4B, 1W, 2B, 4G, 1W,
7B, dec |
19 |
72 |
5B, 1W, 1G, 1
Black, 2G, 1W, 7B, dec |
18 |
73 |
7B, 1W, 3G, 1W, 5B,
dec |
17 |
74 |
4B, 2W, 2G,
2W, 6B, dec |
16 |
75 |
4B, 5W, 6B, dec |
15 |
76 |
4B, 6W, 4B, dec |
14 |
77 |
4B, 5W, 4B, dec |
13 |
78 |
3B, 6W, 3B, dec |
12 |
79 |
3B, 5W, 3B, dec |
11 |
80 |
3B, 4W, 3B, dec |
10 |
81 |
4B, 2W, 3B, dec |
9 |
82 |
8B, dec |
8 |
83 |
7B, dec |
7 |
84 |
6B, dec |
6 |
85 |
5B, dec |
5 |
86 |
4B, dec |
4 |
87 |
3B, dec |
3 |
88 |
2B, dec |
2 |
89 |
1B dec |
1 |
|
Sl st and cast off |
|
Border – in blue
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
Starting in any
corner, sc, ch2 sc, to form corner, then sc between 2 blocks and ch 2, repeat
around and add corner in each corner, sl st and ch 1 |
|
2 |
Sc ch 2 in each
corner, and 3 sc in each ch 2 space, sl st to start of row and cast off |
|
3 |
In white – dc in
each sc and dc ch 2 dc in each corner, sl st to start or row and cast off |
|
4 |
In green, sc in
each dc and sc ch 2 in each sc, sl st and ch 1 |
|
5 |
In Green, crab
stitch in each sc and 3 crab stitch in each corner, sl st to starting st and
cast off |
|
|
Sew in all ends |
|
Baby
Dinosaur Triceratops Comforter
1. Materials and Resources
Below is a list of everything you will need to make this comforter.
· Double Knit Yarn – 100g balls in the following colours
o Blue
o Dark Green
o White
· 2 x 10mm safety eyes (or you can sew them on in black)
· Stuffing (I used about half a 250g bag of stuffing)
· 4mm hook
· Tapestry needle
· Stitch marker
· scissors
This comforter can be made bigger by using Aran/worsted weight yarn and
a 5mm hook.
2.
Stitch List
Below is a list of all the stitches (and
their abbreviations) featured in this series of patterns. All terms used are American.
·
Sl st – slip stitch
·
Sc – single crochet
·
Dc – double crochet
·
Sc inc – single crochet increase
·
Sc dec – single crochet decrease
·
Ch – chain
·
b/l – back loops
·
f/l – front loops
3. Notes
Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.
Gauge
The dinosaur has no specific gauge, however they need to be as tight as possible to prevent the stuffing from coming out.
Short Row Shaping
1. It is very helpful to have a stitch marker when doing short row shaping – so you always know where the start of the original row begins. Short rows do not go right around the whole row, this gives the ability for shaping – i.e a dinosaurs head ridge for the eyes.
2. In addition, when you start the first row after short row shaping, don’t forget the stitch at the base of the sl st show in the picture below.
3. Do not make a single crochet in the sl st, ignore these to create the short row shapes.
Attaching Limbs as you go
Below is a guide to demonstrate how to attach limbs as you go. Some of the dinosaur patterns use this method, other’s require normal sewing.
1. To attach a limb you will need to hold your limb next to the dinosaur with the opening at the top with the toes pointing inwards at the bottom. The photo to the left shows what you will see when placed correctly.
2. You will then insert your hook through 2 layers of leg and through the dinosaur body and pull up a loop through all 3 layers. Then complete the single crochet.
All limbs will be attached this way unless otherwise stated. Each pattern will indicate the number of single crochet stitches required to attach it.
3. Feet are attached to the legs in a similar manner. Your hook will be inserted through the stitch on both the foot and the leg and a loop pulled through and single crochet completed. The difference with the feet is that 2 single crochets will go through each foot loop but only one will go through each foot.
Other Notes
· This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not sl st at the end of each round. A stitch marker is essential for keeping track of the start of your rows.
· It is best to stuff as you go with these patterns. Most patterns indicate the best points to stuff, but incase you miss them, it is always best to stuff if you hit a row that gets to 12 stitches. Any less makes it much harder to stuff large areas.
Horns – make 3 in white
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
4 sc in magic circle |
4 |
2-4 |
Sc around |
4 |
|
Sl st and cast off |
|
Legs – make 2 in green
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
ch 8 and join with sl st to make a round |
8 |
2-4 |
Sc around |
8 |
5 |
(2 sc, sc inc) x2, 2 sc |
10 |
6 |
Sc around |
10 |
7 |
(Sc 4, sc inc) x2, sl st and cast off |
12 |
|
Sl st and cast off |
|
Foot – make 2 in white
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
6 sc in magic
circle |
6 |
2 |
Attach to leg using
(sc inc) x 6 |
12 |
|
Sl st and cast off |
|
Head – starting at the nose in green
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
6 sc in magic circle |
6 |
2 |
Sc in b/l around |
6 |
3 |
2 sc, attach horn
with 2 sc, 2 sc |
6 |
4 |
2 sc, (sc inc) x2, 2 sc |
8 |
5 |
Sc around |
8 |
6 |
3 sc, (sc inc) x3, 2 sc |
11 |
7 |
4 sc, (sc inc) x5, 2 sc |
16 |
8 |
Sc around |
16 |
9 |
4 sc, (sc inc, sc) x4, sc inc, 3 sc |
21 |
10 |
Sc around |
21 |
11 |
9 sc, (sc inc) x3, sc 9 |
24 |
12 |
9 sc, attach horn using 2 sc, 3 sc, attach horn
using 2 sc, 8 sc |
24
|
13 |
23 sc, sl in last st, ch 1, turn |
|
|
sc in next st (st after sl st), 16 sc, sl st in
next st, ch 1, turn |
|
|
Working in b/l 6 sc, (sc dec) x 2, 6 sc, sc in sl
st base, sc |
22 |
|
Add the eyes between row 10 and 11, on the outside
of the horns |
|
14 |
Sc around |
22 |
15 |
Sc, ch 6, sk 4, 18 sc |
18 & ch 6 |
16 |
Sc, 6 sc in ch 6 gap, (sc dec) x 5, 5 sc, leave
last stitch unworked |
17 |
17 |
Attach legs with 3 sc ( 1 from previous round),
sc, sc dec, attach leg with 3 sc, (sc dec) x 4, 2 Sc |
14 |
18 |
(sc dec) x 7 |
7 |
|
Sl st cast off and sew hole shut |
|
|
Stuff head |
|
Crest - Using 2 strands of blue
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
attach wool in 1st of the b/l created in row 15
and 16 sc across all loops you |
16 |
2-3 |
Hdc across, ch3 and
turn |
16 |
4 |
DC in same st as ch 3, HDC and SC in next st, SC
and HDC In next st, 2 DC in next st. (2 DC, HDC SC, SC HDC, 2DC) X 5 |
|
|
Cast off and sew in
ends |
|
Blanket - Stating with green
Row |
Instruction |
Stitches |
1 |
12 sc around neck opening |
12 |
2 |
Sl into the b/l of row 1 starting st to beginning
closing hole. Using sl st insert hook into b/l of opposite st and go
across opening, you should have 6sl st in total to close hole |
6 |
3 |
Sl into the f/l of round 1 and sc in each f/l
joining with a sl to complete round |
12 |
4 |
·
Ch3 2DC ch2 3DC in same st to make
corner, ch1, sk next st, 3DC in same st, ch1, sk next st, 3DC ch 2 3DC in
same st to make next corner, ch1 sk 1 st, 3DC ch2 3DC to make 3rd corner, ch
1, sk next st, 3DC in same st, ch 1, sk next st, 3DC ch 2 3DC to make last
corner, ch1, sk final st and sl st into top of ch 3 (you now have 4 corner st
and 2 single st) |
9 single clusters
and 4 corners |
5 |
·
Ch4 and then in the first corner
ch2 make another corner (3 DC ch2 3DC) then ch 1 and 3 DC in the ch1 so of
previous round. Ch 1 and 3 more DC in the next ch1 so. Ch1 and
you should be back at the second corner. Make a corner in the ch 2 so
(3DC ch 2 3DC). Repeat this pattern around until you get to the final sp
before you ch4 put 2 DC in the so and sl st into the 3rd ch you stated with.
(4 corners and 6 3DC set |
12 clusters and 4
corners |
6 |
·
switch to white and work 2 rows as
above increasing by 1 cluster each time |
16/ 20 clusters and
4 corners |
7 |
·
switch to blue work 2 rows as above
increasing by 1 cluster each time |
24/ 28 clusters and
4 corners |
8 |
·
switch to white work 1 rows as
above increasing by 1 cluster each time |
32 clusters and 4 corners |
9 |
·
switch to green work 1 rows as
above increasing by 1 cluster each time |
36 clusters and 4
corners |
10 |
·
continue in the green and use crab
st- working 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in each ch1 sp and 2sc in each ch 2 sp and
sl st into first st cast off and sew in ends. |
|
To finish using black wool sew a mouth at the base of the nose. Sew tightly to bring the nose into more of a point.