Wednesday, 26 April 2017

Crochet Jewellery

 Last summer I was looking for a new project and after a bit of searching patterns and videos I decided to make some crochet jewellery.   I came across a video tutorial for 3D Romanian Point Lace Cord which made really pretty bracelets.   I didn't have any crochet thread at this point so I went over to Hobbycraft to find some and came back with several different colours.   I watched the video again and began to experiment.   It took a couple of tries to get started since the beginning was a bit tricky, but I soon got the hang of making the cord.   I tried doing several different knots and loops to keep the bracelet attached but I didn't quite like anything I came up with, so after another trip to Hobbycraft I came back with T bar fittings and they worked great.   I found they needed to be threaded onto the wool prior to starting to make the cord, since that made them more sturdy than just sewing them on.    I have a Pandora charm bracelet and way more beads than I can ever wear on it at a time, when made with a 2ply thread and a 2.5mm or smaller hook the Pandora charms fitted great on the bracelets.  After making several bracelets with charms I then extended to make a couple of necklaces using the same technique, one with charm beads and another with an old celtic neckace pendant (the cord for which had broken long ago!).

I then decided to expand my jewellery making into earrings.   Initially I wasn't quite sure how to go about this, but after browsing many different patterns on Ravelry and watching a few YouTube videos I started to experiment.  As with the bracelets, its easier to thread the earring hooks onto the thread prior to making them, and then just bringing them up at the point you want to attach rather than sewing them on.   I have made a few pairs of earrings now and they seem to hold up quite well, although, I wouldn't recommend wearing them around young children - a couple have come off of the hooks when they have been tugged on.   The actual crochet part though has been fine and luckily I have some jewellery pliers to be able to fix them!


I actually have been quite busy since I first started to make crochet jewellery, so I haven't really made much since last summer until this week.  After finishing my 60's project I talked about a couple of weeks ago (it is currently being blocked and I will share more about this next week) I decided to use the small amount of wool I had left over to make some jewellery to match.   I made a cord bracelet using the Romanian technique I talked about above, although this time, without any beads.   I then made a pair of earrings picking out one of the motifs in the project.   I liked how they looked and so decided to string several of the motifs together to make a choker.   I finished this off with a string of single crochet to make a cord either end to tie the choker on.   Both the earrings and choker were a bit curled after making them so I blocked them overnight and I am very pleased with the result.  I think they will look great as a set with the bracelet and 60s top (it turned from a dress into a top as I was making it).

I hope you enjoyed this week's post on crochet jewellery.   See you next week.

Vicky x

Wednesday, 19 April 2017

Shell Crochet Clothing

 This week I have decided to focus on one of my favorite stitches, which also happens to be one of the first stitches I ever learnt, the shell stitch.   The first thing I learnt to crochet was a couple of flowers for a  knitted baby blanket, I wanted to add a border to it and after looking up a few I found the shell stitch.  It was easy to do and looked really effective (unfortunately I don't have a picture of it, it was before I photographed everything I made!)  I have since used the shell stitch a lot as a boarder but only once have I used it in clothing.

Last year I found a pattern for a quick and easy baby cardigan using the shell stitch and I made one in rainbow wool for my daughter this year.  But as she is taller than the pattern size required, I made the sleeves and body longer (she fits the width fine) plus I also added a hood.  It's made from chunky wool so I think the hood makes it more cosy for going out in colder weather.   Using the shell stitch really makes this work up quickly and so I started thinking about other items I could make with it.






I had a couple of 400g balls of Aran/worsted wool in my box that I had no plans for and decided to use it for this project.   I started with the skirt.   I wanted the skirt to have a fairly plain waist band, as I wanted to add a cord to allow it to be adjusted allowing the skirt to last for longer!  A few rows of half double crochet created a lovely waist band.  The tricky bit was finding the right number of stitches that would fit Lily comfortably but also allow the shell stitch to work, 64 ended up being the perfect number.   Once I had found that number the skirt worked up really quickly.   I started it mid afternoon and finished it before the kids went to bed, this included nappy changes, cooking dinner and eating it and stopping for anything else the kids needed!)   I actually made it a tiny bit too short as when Lily wore it the next day when her nappy was full you could see if hanging under the skirt.   This was no problem, however, I had plenty of wool, I just took it off her and added a few more rows to find the perfect length.

Having finished the skirt, I loved the idea of a matching top which would create a sort of dress like look if worn together or that could be worn separately.   The top took a little longer to work out the stitch counts.  I knew it needed to end with 64 to start the shell stitch (I wanted the top part to be plain like the skirt waist band) for the part under the sleeves but after a lot of fiddling around I was able to make the top in an afternoon and evening (still sorting out kids in between).   Once I saw Lily wearing the skirt and top I thought it might also be nice to create the two together to create a top, and I have made a note in theory of how this should be able to work.   I haven't actually had time to try this yet but it should work - I definitely plan on testing this soon!


Having this made with the thicker wool makes it perfect for use most of the year.  I added tights when Lily has been wearing it on spring days and I think for extra warmth it would work well with a plain long sleeved top underneath - great for autumn and spring or winter with an added coat when outside!  I probably wouldn't put it on her in summer unless it was a cold day but it might work without any tights or additional tops.  I have written up the pattern for the top and skirt with the optional rows to turn it into a dress, as well as notes on adjusting the pattern size.   As always, if you decide to make this, I would love to see pictures of them via either the comments on the blog or any of my social media channels.

I hope you have enjoyed my shell crochet clothing this week and inspired you to try the shell stitch if you haven't already!  Thank you for reading and see you next week.

Vicky x

Shell Outfit

This pattern is for age 2-3 but see the notes section for ways to adjust the pattern to fit other sizes.   This pattern is written for a top and skirt and there is a note to combine them into a dress.

 1.  Materials and Resources

  • Aran/Worsted Wool – 85g for the skirt and 120g for the top
  • 5 mm hook
  • Needle to sew in ends
  • small button in matching colour to wool
  1.  Stitch List
  • sc – single crochet
  • Sl st- slip stitch
  • ch – chain
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • sk- skip
  • b/l – back loops
  • V stitch – hdc ch1 hdc in same st
  • Shell Stitch – *5dc in same st, sk, sc, sk* rep to end
  1. Notes

Gauge – 13 hdc stitches and 10 rows of hdc in 10cm square

  • Always remember to use the hidden stitch in the after putting a V stitch in ch1 gaps (this is the stitch from the final hdc of the V stitch) – your stitch count will be out if it is not used.
  • To adjust the top size – increase or decrease the starting ch in multiples of 4 (each 4 will product 1 more shell)  for every shell (4st) you increase or decrease by either increase or decrease a hdc row before row 12.   You can then adjust the amount of shell rows by increasing or decreasing rows 14 and 15 to find the desired length.
  • You can add more hdc rounds to the sleeves to make them longer if required.
  • To adjust the skirt size – increase or decrease starting ch in multiples of 4 (each 4 will produce 1 more shell) and increase or decrease rows 8 and 9 for as long as you would like the skirt.
  • Add 1 shell for each size you wish to go up and decrease 1 shell for each size you wish to go down (using the notes above)
  • Top and skirt can be worn together to or separately depending on the look you would like to have, if you want to combine them to make a dress then see the note at the end of the pattern.

Shell Crochet Dress Pattern

If you want to make this into a dress first make the top, then at the end of row 31 add this row before starting the skirt;

  1. ch1, sc in ch1 st, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in sc, hdc, sk1, sc in middle DC of shell* rep to end and sl st in starting sc, ch1 turn (64)
  2. then start at row 2 of the skirt working in b/l
  3. you will not need to add the waist band tie for the dress unless you want it as decoration.
  1. Pattern 
RowInstructionStitches
Ch 49
1Working all rows in B/l from this point hdc in 2nd ch from hk, 4 hdc, V st, 11 hdc, V st, 11 hdc, V st, 11 hdc, V st, 6hdc, ch1 turn44 &, 4 V
26 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 13 hdc, V st in ch 1 sp, 13 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 13 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 7hdc, ch 1 turn52 & 4 V
37hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 15 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 15 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 15hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 9hdc, ch1 turn (60 hdc, 4 V st)60 & 4 V
49 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 17 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 17 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 17 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 8hdc, sl st in starting hdc to create a ring, ch1 turn68 & 4 V
58 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 19 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 19 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 19 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 11hdc, sl st, ch1 turn76 & 4 V
611 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 21 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 21 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 21 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 10 hdc, sl st, ch1 turn84 & 4 V
710 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 23 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 23 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 23 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 13 hdc, sl st, ch1 turn92 & 4 V
813 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 25 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 25 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 25 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 12 hdc, sl st, ch1 turn100 & 4 V
912 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 27 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 27 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 27 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 15 hdc, sl st, ch1 turn108 & 4 V
1015 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 29 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 29 hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 29hdc, V st in ch1 sp, 14 hdc, sl st, ch1 turn116 & 4 V
1114 hdc, fold work so that the next 2 ch 1 gaps are on top of each other to create a sleeve, then hdc through both Ch1 gaps, 31 hdc across the back, hdc through next 2 ch1 gaps to create second sleeve (same as 1st sleeve), then 17 hdc, ch1 turn64
12hdc across, ch1 turn64
13still working in b/l sc in same st as ch1, *sk1, 5 DC in next st, sk1, sc in next st* rep to end and sl st in starting sc, ch3 (do not turn and do not work in b/l from this point forward)16 shells
14-31repeat rows 14 to 1516 shells
cast off and sew in ends

 Neckline

RowInstructionStitches
1start in left hand corner of the neckline and sc 48 around the neck edge, then when you reach right hand corner of neckline ch3 and sc in same st as final sc (this creates buttonhole loop)
2working along the opening created in rows 1-5, 6sc down each side of the opening and sl st to starting sc of neck line then cast off and sew in ends
sew small button on opposite side to button loop.

Sleeves x 2

RowInstructionStitches
1attach wool in centre of underarm and ch1, then work 32 hdc in b/l around the sleeve edge, sl st into starting hdc and ch1 and turn (32)32
2hdc around in b/l, sl st, ch1 turn32
3sc in starting ch1 st, *sk1, 5 DC in next st, sk1, sc in next st* rep to end, sl st in starting sc and cast off and sew in ends.8 shells

Shell Crochet Skirt Pattern

RowInstructionStitches
ch 64, sl st to form a ring, ch164
1-5hdc across in b/l, ch 1, turn64
6hdc across in b/l, ch 1, do not turn for this round or any rounds after64
7sc in same space as ch1, *sk 1, 5DC in next sc, sk1, sc* rep to end and sl st in 1st sc, ch316 shells
82dc in same st as ch3, sc in centre dc of shell, *5dc in sc, sc in centre dc of shell* rep to last sc and then add 2 dc in same space as starting ch3 and sl st into top of ch3 to complete shell, ch 116 shells
9-24repeat rows 8 and 916 shells
cast off and sew in ends

Waist band Tie – To allow the skirt to be adjustable you can make the following waits band

RowInstructionStitches
1ch 101 and sc in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end100
cast off and sew in and out of the 2nd row of hdc starting in the front centre and ending there.   Tie knots in each end to prevent it from coming undone.

 

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.

 

 


Wednesday, 12 April 2017

Rainbow Lace Crochet Dress WIP

 This week I want to do something a little different, instead of sharing a finished project, I would like to share something I am currently working on, my WIP (work in progress).  I was invited to a 60's themed hen party at the end of the month and I did not have anything 60's style to wear.  I thought about buying something, but I had seen some lovely rainbow wool in Hobbycraft which would be great for the project.   I spent a few hours browsing Pinterest for inspiration and I found a few crochet dresses I liked.   (If you would like to see my inspiration check out the board I made here.)  I then purchased a load of the chunky rainbow wool I saw (James C Brett Partytime) and sat down with the images to see what I could create.

This is the first time I have ever tried to work directly from photos and it took a lot of trial and error, making and undoing, but I started to get somewhere I that was beginning to like.   My first attempt shown below on the right I actually got quite far with, and although it fit nicely it wasn't getting any real shape to it, and I quickly realised that it perhaps needed to be reworked.  Since I had done the individual motif's and joined them together as I went it was quite a lot of work to undo, and I had also weaved in my ends as I went, not something I should have done whilst I was experimenting!   I have actually ended up putting it aside to deal with later (I bought plenty of wool to try with and therefore I had the luxury to be able to start again without having to undo it straight away.





The picture on the the left represents my next try, somewhat more floral that than attempt number 1 but I actually like this design and it is 100% my idea and not copied from images.   I did note this time to not weave in my ends until I was 100% happy with it, so it will be so much easier to undo if I change my mind!   The weather in the UK has been unusually hot for the last week or so and I therefore I decided to leave this WIP too since the chunky wool was likely to be just too hot for the end of April.  So for the moment both of these are sitting in a drawer, but I fully intend to something with them later in the year, I think perhaps they would be better for the winter months and would work great for a jacket rather than a crochet dress.

I actually remembered I had bought some rainbow 4ply wool last year (Women's Institute) which was sat awaiting a project and I thought this would be great.   I wanted to combine the circles and flowers from my previous 2 attempts but also again come up with something unique.   I have spent the last couple of weeks or so working on this new version in the lighter wool which I am really liking.  The top picture shows the motives held together at the start and the bottom shows the top of the dress with the start of the sleeves.   I have obviously got a long way to go but I like how it fits on me so far and how it is coming together.  In fact I was so pleased with it that I weaved in all the ends so far last night.   I am hoping to have some long flowing sleeves on the dress and most of the top being quite fitted with a more flowing short skirt on the end.

This version of the dress will definitely be a lot better for the warmer weather and the rainbow it a little more subtle than my original choice, but it means I can probably wear it a little more often!   I will be putting up my progress pictures on my social media channels, if you would like to follow them.   I will also be writing out this pattern, but since it is a larger project it will be a while before it will be available.  I will probably be looking for some individuals to test the pattern in May, so send me an email or comment on the blog of social media if this is something you would be interested in.

I hope you have enjoyed this week's post and will look forward to my progress on the crochet dress.  See you next week, I'm off to continue working on it!

Vicky x

Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Spring Strawberry Crochet

 My children love strawberries, they are one of their favourite fruits and now the weather is warming up we have been enjoying eating them.  I decided a while ago that I wanted to make Lily a strawberry based cardigan but I wasn't exactly sure how I wanted to do it.  This week I finally sat down and came up with an idea and worked on it, however, it ended up nothing like I originally imagined, but I love it.

I originally wanted it to be long sleeved and button up the whole way down.   I was going to do strawberry rows for the entire cardigan and make it mostly white.   I didn't have enough white at home to make anything with so looking at the colours I did have enough of it has become mostly purple with green edging plus, of course, the strawberries.

After having worked a couple of rows I realised this had to be worked from the bottom up to make the strawberries the right way up.  After having worked 3 rows of strawberries my design idea began to change, I felt that anymore strawberry rows might end up being too many and so I stopped and ended up making 4 pieces.   Having the top and bottom in different stitches it made sense to only have it half buttoned up.  Once I had gotten to putting the parts together I loved the look of the short sleeves and just decided to give them a simple edge.

Its a little bit smaller than I would have liked it to be for Lily, it fits but won't last her long, but the pattern is easy to adjust to make it larger so I might make her another one if she outgrows it before the end of summer.  Overall I am pleased with how it came out and she seems to like it too.




To continue the strawberry fun this week, I made Oliver the cuddly strawberry he's been asking for.   He knows where I keep my wool and so he has been pulling out the red wool and asking for me to make it into a cuddly strawberry for him.

The strawberry is a fairly simple pattern with arms and legs that are made first and attached as you go along.   The complicated part is, like the strawberry cardigan, working with multiple colours as you go.   I have found the easiest way to do this is to trap the wool under every other stitch as you go so you don't see the wool at the front.   Since the spots are only used every couple of rows it doesn't need to be carried too much and is not too difficult to use.

I couldn't find a way to attach as you go the eyes or top leaves (made with crocodile stitch) so there is some sewing involved but it's not too much since I really hate that part of crochet!   I finished the strawberry late one evening so Oliver didn't get it until the following morning, but he has been carrying it around with him everywhere and strawberry has to do everything he does.  He named his strawberry Stella (after the spaceship in Miles from Tomorrow Kids TV program) and really seems to love her.



If you would like to make your own Strawberry Cardigan or Stella the Cuddly Strawberry then find the patterns below.  As with all my patterns I would love to see pictures of anything you decide to make and you can post them in the comments or on any of my social media profiles.

I hope you have enjoyed this weeks Strawberry post and I look forward to seeing you next week.

Vicky X

Strawberry Cardigan Pattern – Age 1-2


1.  Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make your cardigan

·        Double Knit Yarn Yarn – 100g balls in the following colours

o   Lilac

o   Green

o   Red

·        4 mm hook

·        Tapestry needle

·        3 x 14mm Buttons in red

 

2.  Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this series of patterns.  All terms used are American.

·        Sl st – slip stitch

·        Sc – single crochet

·        Ch – chain

·        Dc – double crochet

·        Hdc – half double crochet

·        Moss stitch – (sc, ch 2, sk 1) repeat

·        Popcorn Stitch – (yarn over, insert hook through stitch and pull up a loop), repeat 5 times, then yarn over and pull through all loops on hook, ch 1

·        Sc cluster – sc in each of the hdc from popcorn stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook through original sc then pull the loop through, ch 1

·        Fphdc – front post half double crochet

·        Bphdc, - back post half double crochet

 

3.  Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

    • When working on the strawberry rows you will be working with multiple colours, it is best to change colour on the final loop you pull through on the stitch before you change colour
    • Try trapping the wool you are not using under every other stitch so it carries without it showing though the front of the work
    • It is best to cut the red and green colours at the end of each strawberry row and work the ends in at the end

4.  Pattern

 Back – starting in green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

Ch 51

 

2

hdc in 2nd ch from hook, then HDC to end of row, ch1 turn

50

3

Hdc in 1st stitch, (fphdc, bphdc)  rep to 1 stitch remains, thenhdc in last stitch, ch 1 turn

50

4-6

Repeat row 3

50

7

in purple sc across, ch 1 turn

50

8

moss stitch - (sc, ch1, Sk 1) rep to end and sc in last st, ch1 turn

50

9

(sc, ch1, sc in ch1 sp) rep to end, sc in last st, ch1 turn

50

10-11

Repeat row 9

50

12

Repeat row 9, ch 3, turn

50

13

2 DC switch to red popcorn stitch, switch to green sc cluster, (switch to purple 4dc, red popcorn stitch, green sc cluster stitch) rep to end, 2 DC to finish, ch 1 turn

50

14

sc across (make sure there is only 1 stitch in each popcorn / sc cluster) ch1 turn (50)

50

15

Repeat row 8

50

16-22

Repeat rows 8-14

50

23-30

Repeat rows 15-22

50

31-36

Repeat rows 15-20

50

 

Cast off

 

 

Front – make 2 starting in green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

Ch 26

 

2

Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, then HDC to end of row, ch1 turn

25

3

hdc in 1st stitch (fphdc, bphdc) rep to second to last stitch then HDC in last stitch, ch1 turn

25

4-6

Repeat row 3

25

7

In purple Sc across ch1 turn

25

8

moss stitch - sc (sc, ch1, Sk 1) rep to end and sc in last st, ch1 turn

25

9

Repeat row 8

25

10

Repeat row 9

25

11

Repeat row 8, ch 3, turn

25

12

2 DC switch to red popcorn stitch, switch to green sc cluster, (switch to purple 4dc, red popcorn stitch, green sc cluster stitch) rep to end, 2 DC to finish, ch 1 turn

25

13

Sc across (make sure there is only 1 stitch in each popcorn / sc cluster) ch1 turn

25

14-19

Repeat rows 8-12

25

20

Repeat row 9

25

21-22

Repeat rows 13-14

25

23-30

Repeat rows 15-22

25

31-36

Repeat rows 15-20

25

 

Cast off

 

 

Sc sides to the back with right sides facing each other, use 1 sc in each HDC and 2sc in each DC.

 

 

Cast off and sew in ends

 

 

Top – make 1 starting in purple

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

Ch 61

 

2

HDC in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end

60

3

10 HDC, HDC ch1 HDC in next st, 8 HDC, HDC ch1 HDC in next st, 20 HDC, HDC ch1 HDC in next st, 8 HDC, HDC ch1 HDC in next st, 10 HDC, ch1 turn

 

4

HDC in each stitch and 2 HDC ch1 HDC in the ch1 gap repeat to end of row ch1 turn

 

5-8

Repeat row 4

 

9

hdc in each st and HDC ch1 HDC in the ch 1 gap, rep to end of row ch1 turn

 

10-13

Repeat row 9

 

14

hdc to 1st ch1 sp then fold work so 1st and 2nd ch 1 sp overlap, then HDC through both stitches to form first arm hold, HDC to the 3rd ch1 sp and as above form second arm hole through 3rd and 4th ch1 spaces, HDC to end of row, ch1 turn

 

15

bpHDC around (this is now the wrong side of the top)

 

16

holding the bottom section of the cardigan with right sides facing sc both pieces together it will make a second raised row (the first raised row is from row 15) cast off

 

 

Edge – make working around sides and neck in green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

sc from the bottom corner, around the neck and down to the other side.   Sc in each HDC and 2 sc in each DC, sc ch1 sc in each corner (edge of neck and sides) ch1 turn

 

 

2

hdc in each sc and HDC ch1 HDC in ch1 st, ch1 turn

 

 

3

hdc in first st (fphdc, bphdc) rep to end and HDC in final stitch, HDC ch1 HDC in each ch1 corner, ch1 turn

 

 

4

rep row 3, cast off and sew in ends

 

 

 

Sleeve Edge – in green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

Starting in the bottom middle of the sleeve sc in each stitch around, sl st and cast off, sew in ends

 

 

 

Add buttons evenly spaced across the top - there is no need to make button holes and they are small enough to fit in the spaces in the ribbed stitches of the edges.

 

 

 

Stella the Cuddly Strawberry

 

1.  Materials and Resources

  • 4.5mm hook
  • Aran wool in red and green, less than 100g of each
  • small odds of Aran wool in yellow, black and white
  • stuffing
  • stitch marker
  • needle

2.  Stitch List

  • sc - single crochet
  • sc inc - single crochet increase
  • sc Dec - single crochet decrease
  • ch - chain
  • sl st - slip stitch
  • DC - double crochet
  • bpdc - back post double crochet
  • crocodile stitch

 

3.  Notes

    • Do not join rounds with slip stitch, you can use a stitch marker instead to mark rounds.
    • The arms and legs are joined as you go so make these first.
    • When working with the yellow wool carry the row under every other stitch to prevent it being seen from the front
    1.  It is best to change colour on the final pull through loop of the stitch before you need the new colour.

 

  1. Pattern

Legs (make 2) – Using Green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

(Sc inc) X 6

6

2

(Sc inc) X 6

12

3

(sc inc, sc) x6

18

4-5

Sc around

18

6

(sc Dec, sc) x6

12

7-14

Sc around

12

 

Sl st, cast off and stuff leg

 

Arms (make 2) - Using green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

(Sc inc) X 6

6

2

(Sc inc) X 6

12

3-4

Sc around

12

5

(sc Dec, sc) X

8

6-10

sc around

 

 

sc around (8) sl st cast off and stuff arm

 

Body - using red unless it states to use yellow

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

6 sc in magic circle

6

2

(sc inc) x6

12

3

sc around

12

4

(sc inc, sc) x6

18

5

sc around

18

6

(sc inc, 2sc) x6

24

7

sc around

24

8

(sc inc, 3sc) x6

30

9

sc around

30

10

sc inc, 4 sc, (hold leg so the open edge is flat and against the side of the strawberry, using the next 6 stitches you will work through both sides of the leg and the strawberry body to attach it) attach leg with sc inc, 4sc, (sc inc, 4sc) x2, attach second leg with sc inc, 4 sc, sc inc 4 sc

36

11

(5 sc in red, sc in yellow) x6

36

12

(sc inc, 5sc) x6

42

13

Sc around

42

14

sc inc, 6sc) x6

48

15

5sc in red, sc in yellow, (7sc in red, sc in yellow) x5, 2sc in red

48

16

(Sc inc, 7sc) x6

54

17

sc around

54

18

(sc inc, 8sc) x6

60

19

3sc in red, sc in yellow, (9sc in red, sc I'm yellow) x5,

60

20

sc around

60

21

17 sc, attach arm with 4sc (as you attached legs), 28sc, attach second arm with 4sc, 8sc

60

22

sc around

60

23

2sc in red, sc in yellow, 6sc in red, sc in yellow, 12sc in red, sc in yellow, 9sc in red, sc in yellow, 8 sc in red, sc in yellow, 9sc in red, yellow sc, 9 sc in red

60

24-26

Sc around

60

27

(sc Dec, 8sc) x6

54

28

(sc Dec, 7sc) x6

48

29

(sc dec, 6sc) x6

42

30

(sc Dec, 5sc) x6

36

31

(sc Dec, 4sc) x6

30

32

(sc Dec, 3sc) x6

24

33

(sc Dec, 2sc) x6

18

 

Stuff Strawberry

 

34

(sc Dec, sc) x6

12

35

(sc Dec) x6

6

 

cast off and sew shut

 

Leaves - in green

Row

Instruction

Stitches

 

ch 38

 

1

sc in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end

37

2

dc in next stitch, (ch3, Sk 3, 2dc) rep to end, ch 1 turn

 

3

crocodile stitch - (5bpdc down the 1st DC then 5bpdc up the second DC to form leaf shape) rep to end ch1 turn

 

4

sl st into centre of leaf and then sl st into ch2 gap, ch3 DC, (ch 2, 2dc in next ch2 gap) rep to end of last ch2 gap, ch1 turn

 

5

crocodile stitch as row 4

 

 

sl st into 1st leaf to make a ring and the cast off with long tail

 

 

weave tail between centre gaps and ch2 spaces and draw tight, then sew sides together and attach to the strawberry

 

Eyes (make 2)

Row

Instruction

Stitches

1

In black - 6sc  in magic

6

2

In white (Sc inc) x6

12

 

sl st cast off and attach to strawberry

 

Using black sew a smile on the cuddly strawberry.

  

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.

 

 

 

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.